Just like styling for your your body, your fashion doll needs just the right accessories for her (or his) costumes or fashion ensembles; often finding them can become quite a challenge. Of all the accessories, I believe the most difficulty is in finding just the right shoes and jewelry.
Most of the shoes are much too trendy for historical costumes, and much too cheap looking for historical or couture OOAKs.
I have been learning to make a lot of my own jewelry for unique fashion ensembles for both myself, and realize now how easy it is to make for my fashion doll (s). Actually, one has and advantage making it for the dolls because so much design can be adapted from jewelry that is already made.
I have been learning to make a lot of my own jewelry for unique fashion ensembles for both myself, and realize now how easy it is to make for my fashion doll (s). Actually, one has and advantage making it for the dolls because so much design can be adapted from jewelry that is already made.
Today's post is going to apply to making your own special doll jewelry. Fortunately, you really do not have to have either a lot of experience or to look very far to find jewelry that you can de-construct (adapt) for your doll, and you really only need a very few tools. The best part is that you need NO experience and can usually make it for very little cost.
IN mall shops such as Icing or Claires you can usually find many earrings that simply need a snip or two, insersion of a jump ring (found at any craft shop,) addition of a small chain and clasp using the small wire cutters and needle nosed pliars found in most home tool boxes (or craft store), about 10 minutes, and voila!! a necklace for your fashion doll. Frankly, I can make most of mine for less than the cost of purchasing them (IF I can) at doll shows or doll supply outlets.
Nigerian Princess in the upper left hand corner is adorned with a small pair or circle earring that simply were replacements for the tacky plastic earrings originally worn by the doll. The plastic ones were removed with needle nosed pliars, a small dab of instant glue was applied to the hole and immediately the metallic round replacements were inserted. The necklace is 1/2 of a pair of adorned metal earrings that had the ear wires cut off, the ends cut off, and inserted around the neck. The necklace has been resting comfortably on the dolls neck for fourteen years (part of my own personal collection).
A versatile pair of earrings work wonderfully as a base for many items of doll jewelry; I have used them for earrings, bracelets, and especially necklaces. The second picture shows one earring with four dangling featherlike designs; I snipped away at one of the dangles until I got the correct amount of neck space, added jump rings at each side, attached chain and clasp using the needle nosed pliars (btw, two pair work best when separating the rings and closing after working in the chain, etc.)
I have enlarged the picture to your left so you can more easily view the placement of the pieces. in these necklaces. Remember to leave enough space for your fingers to close the clasp. (You usually need at least three inches of neck space for an 11 1/2 inch doll such as Barbie) If you do not plan on removing the necklace at any time, it may work best just to fasten with very thin metal wire and tying it. You can usually find metal thread of .010 mm that is virtually invisible and quite strong. I have added spring ring clasps to my examples as I will be selling some of them at a fund raiser craft show for my home owners association.
The picture of the necklace to the left does not do it justice. The necklace was created from a brooch in a glitzy arrangement of silver toned metal and immitation amythest. It is made for a Tonner doll that requires a four inch chain.
In the picture on the lower left, I have shown a selection of the necklaces I am making for the craft show (and also for some of the new proto-type dolls I will soon be adding to the Lord Perry Patterns collection. All of the items that I have shown have been easy to find (a Lord Perry tradition); I purchased all the original jewelry or jewelry products at 50% off sales (frequent in all of these types of stores).
As always, the success of your creation depends upon the choice of materials, the correct proportions, and suitability of the material used. It does require a little patience and imagination.
TIP: You can often find great pieces at thrift stores for very little money that can be de-constructed to make original art for you OOAK.
IN mall shops such as Icing or Claires you can usually find many earrings that simply need a snip or two, insersion of a jump ring (found at any craft shop,) addition of a small chain and clasp using the small wire cutters and needle nosed pliars found in most home tool boxes (or craft store), about 10 minutes, and voila!! a necklace for your fashion doll. Frankly, I can make most of mine for less than the cost of purchasing them (IF I can) at doll shows or doll supply outlets.
Nigerian Princess in the upper left hand corner is adorned with a small pair or circle earring that simply were replacements for the tacky plastic earrings originally worn by the doll. The plastic ones were removed with needle nosed pliars, a small dab of instant glue was applied to the hole and immediately the metallic round replacements were inserted. The necklace is 1/2 of a pair of adorned metal earrings that had the ear wires cut off, the ends cut off, and inserted around the neck. The necklace has been resting comfortably on the dolls neck for fourteen years (part of my own personal collection).
A versatile pair of earrings work wonderfully as a base for many items of doll jewelry; I have used them for earrings, bracelets, and especially necklaces. The second picture shows one earring with four dangling featherlike designs; I snipped away at one of the dangles until I got the correct amount of neck space, added jump rings at each side, attached chain and clasp using the needle nosed pliars (btw, two pair work best when separating the rings and closing after working in the chain, etc.)
I have enlarged the picture to your left so you can more easily view the placement of the pieces. in these necklaces. Remember to leave enough space for your fingers to close the clasp. (You usually need at least three inches of neck space for an 11 1/2 inch doll such as Barbie) If you do not plan on removing the necklace at any time, it may work best just to fasten with very thin metal wire and tying it. You can usually find metal thread of .010 mm that is virtually invisible and quite strong. I have added spring ring clasps to my examples as I will be selling some of them at a fund raiser craft show for my home owners association.
The picture of the necklace to the left does not do it justice. The necklace was created from a brooch in a glitzy arrangement of silver toned metal and immitation amythest. It is made for a Tonner doll that requires a four inch chain.
In the picture on the lower left, I have shown a selection of the necklaces I am making for the craft show (and also for some of the new proto-type dolls I will soon be adding to the Lord Perry Patterns collection. All of the items that I have shown have been easy to find (a Lord Perry tradition); I purchased all the original jewelry or jewelry products at 50% off sales (frequent in all of these types of stores).
As always, the success of your creation depends upon the choice of materials, the correct proportions, and suitability of the material used. It does require a little patience and imagination.
TIP: You can often find great pieces at thrift stores for very little money that can be de-constructed to make original art for you OOAK.
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